Jumping spiders are fascinating, misunderstood creatures and science is just beginning to scratch the surface. I’d like to think us hobbyists and arachnid aficionados play a key role in that. We made spiders cool again.
They are very easy to care for. Depending on their age (please refer to other articles regarding diet and life cycle for details), they only need to be fed and watered 1-3 times per week with a proper enclosure. They do not take up much space, don’t require an added heat source like a lamp or tank heater, and they won’t claw up your couch or chew up your slippers.
We currently breed and sell Phidippus regius spiders, commonly known as the regal jumping spider. They're native to the southeastern United States and to islands like Bermuda, the Bahamas, Easter Island, and the Greater Antilles.
The scientific name, Phidippus regius, is comprised of the genus and species. Phidippus = genus, regius = species.
All jumping spiders are members of the Salticidae family. There are over 6,000 species of jumping spider!
Of all the jumpers out there, why choose Phidippus regius? Not only are they quite large in terms of jumping spiders, but they are also docile, calm, and interactive. They are fuzzy and also come in a variety of colors! Being a sexually dimorphic species (that means males and females look different), it's easier to identify whether you have a lad or lady. This species shows differences early on so it won't be long before each individual spider's biological sex can be determined with a degree of certainty.
That comes in handy when you want to name your pet!
Regal jumping spiders can live up to 3 years. As with most arachnids, the females tend to live longer than females. Spiders start off as teeny little yellowish eggs in groups of 80-300 called a 'clutch.' The clutch is contained in an egg sac made of very thick webbing. Now, not all clutches are fertile. Much like chickens, female spiders do not need a male around to lay eggs. They'll lay infertile eggs! Mamas will create a beautiful, thick layer of web to create a tent around the egg sac. They will stay with their eggs for weeks, rarely venturing out for food and water, until their eggs hatch.
Once the eggs hatch, the spiderlings (AKA slings) are considered to be at their first instar (AKA i1). The slings will molt to their second instar and begin to venture out of the nest. These i2 slings will begin to be on the prowl for some snacks and may cannibalize the weaker of their siblings. Many breeders leave them together for convenience and ease of feeding, but I personally separate them to avoid cannibalism. In nature, they'd disperse, and I like to mimic that as best I can.
From there, they continue to molt (shed their exoskeleton like Mr. Krabs in that episode of "Spongebob") to subadult, then to adulthood.
Unlike tarantulas, jumping spiders are "true spiders" and stop molting once they reach sexual maturity. Once they reach sexual maturity, females have a visible epigynum, which looks like a belly button on their abdomen. Males will have pedipalps that have enlarged bulbs/boxing gloves on the ends.
Males attract females with an elaborate dance with their front legs up, to display their intent. Female jumpers will play hard to get. It's the male's continued efforts that really woo the ladies. Fun Fact: Studies are showing that spiders interact with minute taps and vibrations during these encounters. Scientists are working diligently to decipher the spider tappity-tap dance language. ...Probably with tax dollars, but I'll allow it. For Science.
Females will typically only mate with one male their whole lives. The males store sperm in their pedipalps in "packets" and during mating, they will insert the sperm into the female's epigynum. A bred female will then reject other suitors, as they may retain the sperm for almost a year. When they're well-fed and comfy, they will create a nest and an egg sac. From just their one mating encounter, they can have up to four or five egg sacs with hundreds of eggs. Although, the egg quantity tends to decrease with each egg sac.
As mentioned in Phidippus Regius 101, this species of spider shows a difference between sexes early on. Sexual dimorphism is when a species shows a distinct difference in physical appearance, between males and females, in addition to their sex organs. Any species where you can identify the sex of an individual by appearance alone is what you'd call a sexually dimorphic species.
Aside from the fact that females tend to be larger (they also have longer lifespans) than males, the sexes can be distinguished by colors. Males are typically black and white with blue/green chelicerae. Females come in a more broad variety of colors like white, gray, cream, orange, dark brown, and even black and white like the males. Female P. regius spiders are special because their chelicerae can come in such a variety of iridescent colors like vibrant pink/red, pink/purple, purple/green, purple/blue... They're all so beautiful!
By the time spiders are at instar 4 or 5, you can make a very good guess at their sex. Many species of spider are indistinguishable, in terms of biological sex, until they reach sexual maturity.
A jumping spider diet consists of bugs and water. What type of bugs? That depends on the size of the individual!
A general rule of thumb: Don't feed a spider a bug bigger than its abdomen.
I feed slings flightless fruit flies. When they get larger, mealworms and extra small crickets are foods of choice. Remember to remove uneaten crickets from enclosures because crickets are savage and can injure or harm your spider. Slings eat more often than older spiders; approximately every 1-3 days. Adults can eat twice a week and be set. You can monitor their abdomen/body condition to ensure they're eating adequately.
Jumping spiders have been known to enjoy all sorts of flying insects, dubia roaches, horned worms, mealies, etc.
It's important to remove uneaten food and their leftovers to maintain a healthy environment and reduce mold growth.
Now for MOISTURE. Regal jumping spiders get the majority of their hydration from their food, but they still need a water source. Some people use small dishes with a damp sponge. a wad of paper towel or cotton ball. Some folks use moist sphagnum moss. Some mist their enclosures often, some do all of these. The mist ought to be a very fine mist as large droplets can drown your spider. (See anatomy lesson for info on their book lungs.) You want to ensure they have enough ambient humidity to replicate the Floridian humidity. If not, your spider will be looking like Spongebob and Patrick during their first visit to Sandy's dome.
You may be wondering what kind of housing requirements your pet spider may have. There are some things we need to keep in mind when housing these creatures. In no particular order: Safety, Aesthetics, Function, Enrichment, and Security. "SAFES."
Safety - All materials should be free of unsafe chemicals, drowning risks, and harmful food bugs. Mold is something you want to keep an eye out for too. You should make sure decor is affixed securely so nothing is going to fall on your sweet little spood.
Aesthetics - Let your imagination run wild. You are the creator of your spider's little world. If you want your spider to live in a hobbit village, create it. Imagining an enchanted forest? Build it. One of my spiders dwells in an office, complete with a polymer clay mug of coffee and potted plant. Express yourself and give your spider lots to explore. You can go for a bioactive set up or something a little more unnatural or whimsical. The world is yours to create.
Function - Jumping spiders are arboreal creatures. They climb up. You want an enclosure that is taller than it is wide. You also don't want an enclosure that is too big. We tend to think more space is better for our pets. We work hard so our dogs can have a bigger yard. When it comes to spider, bigger isn't always better. Spiders don't need a lot of space and can often have a hard time hunting in larger enclosures. Slings, in particular, need smaller enclosures to ensure they are fed and not feeling the stress. Remember that these arboreal spiders like to create little we hammocks att he tops of their enclosures so it's best if the enclosure opens from the bottom or has an opening side to leave some top corners undisturbed. Spiders will make their own hammocks but they often appreciate when you provide them with a "hide." A little hidey hole at the top of the enclosure will do nicely. They may not ever use it (some do and some don't), but it's the thought that counts. Cross ventilation is important to their health, as well. you want to have cross ventilation.
Enrichment - Having several textures and surfaces to climb, things to look at, and little nooks and crannies to explore will provide these little dudes with much needed enrichment. They're smarter than the average spider and will be considerably happier with enrichment. I swear that I have spiders that clearly LOVE watching my fish tank. I will move them around the house for a change in scenery, some indirect sunshine, but they are always happiest when in view of my aquarium. If you choose to not handle your spider, you can still enrich their lives through their environment.
S - Security is critical because you want to make sure your furry baby doesn't get loose in your house to get squished. Unless you want crickets and other food critters running rampant in your house rent-free, pay attention to security. Make sure your spider and its prey cannot fit through any holes or openings. Keep the enclosure somewhere steady and at low-risk for being knocked over. Resident cats and kids, I'm looking at you.
Caresheet - Phidippus regius - i4 to i6 (pdf)
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